"Chef-owner Benjamin Sukle made a name for himself at his first restaurant, Birch, where he served thoughtful, labor-intensive, New England-by-way-of-Noma dishes. That restaurant closed during the pandemic, but the chef is still at work with Rhode Island seafood and produce at his more casual second restaurant (as well as his new raw bar, Gift Horse). Oberlin’s menu centers around hand-crafted pasta and just-caught local fish, such as fluke and scup. They’re sliced raw and garnished minimally with a sprinkle of salt and a drizzle of olive oil, or served whole, grilled or roasted. Sukle’s dishes are designed for sharing, so you’ll want to round out your order with a veg (try the Tokyo turnip Caesar) and a seasonal pasta, like summertime’s lumache with sweet corn, lonza, shishitos, and mint. Oberlin recently moved to a new location a stone’s throw away from its original spot, and Sukle teamed up with co-owner and wine pro Bethany Caliaro to open Gift Horse next door." - Jenna Pelletier