"Massimo Laveglia opened L'Industrie in Williamsburg in 2017. He knew nothing about pizza at the time — 'I couldn’t barely turn on the ovens,' he says — but he learned quick. His crunchy, charred slices are now regarded as some of the best in the city. Laveglia brought L'Industrie to the West Village last fall, and as far as I can tell, he’s had a line out the door ever since. The new shop has indoor tables and a standing counter, but many people hover with their slices out front and spill burrata onto the sidewalk. Like at the original location in Williamsburg, there are sandwiches, pastries, and soft serve gelato. After several visits, I feel confident saying the pizza here is better than the original. For one, the line moves quicker, but also the new place has room for twice as many cooks in the kitchen: They tend to pizzas like they’re working the line of a Michelin-starred restaurant. One spoons burrata, another grates Parmesan. Each time I’ve visited the new shop, my slices were a little overcooked — a good thing if you like crisp pizza — but because they’re made like sourdough, they still have some chew and are able to fold without cracking. As for the 'undercarriage,' the underside of the pizza whose Platonic ideal is endlessly debated: It’s speckled with char marks like the pelt of a giraffe." - Luke Fortney
