"Chef legend Javier Wong has been perfecting the art of cebiche preparation for more than 50 years — which justifies the hoops you have to jump through to dine on his food. His humble restaurant of six to eight tables in the La Victoria neighborhood (which is also his home) has no sign, no walk-ins are allowed, and reservations must be made for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday. His cebiche is worth it, with clean, vibrant flavors from a few excellent ingredients. He only uses Dover sole, which he delicately douses with lime juice, salt, and pepper, before topping it with thinly sliced red onion and chunks of perfectly cooked octopus. While other chefs might fuss with sweet potato, corn, spicy chile, or lettuce, there’s none of that here. Wong lets the fish shine on its own, and he makes all the food right in front of his guests." - Liliana López Sorzano
