NY Times Comes to Love the Joyful Oasis of Desert Dining Star La Copine | Eater LA
"Tucked into a sun-beaten, wind-swept building off the roadway, I found La Copine in Flamingo Heights (greater Yucca Valley) serving seasonal, reassuringly confident food that appeals to both brunching families and retreat-seekers on a cleanse in an inclusive dining room run with joy and exuberance by chef-owner Nikki Hill and partner Claire Wadsworth. They bought the place for just $30,000 and have championed a slower pace to restaurant life—multiple days off and chunks of time away during the blazing summer—which contributes to the staff’s charming, almost goofy energy. The concise menu and wine list produce real highlights: burly, satisfying salads and fried chicken thighs are standouts, though not everything hits the same bar—the warm, sugar-dredged beignets can be on the tough side with a too-tight crumb, and a banh mi was once heavily oversalted—missteps that are often overlooked when seated in such an effusive environment. It’s easy to see why the restaurant has become beloved, landed on last year’s Eater list of Essential California restaurants, and is held up as a model for outsiders putting down roots in small communities." - Farley Elliott
