"Tiny premises belie a sprawling menu at this Burmese restaurant that started out as a stall in a Queens subway station run by family owners Thidar Kyaw, Tin Ko Naing, and Yun Naing. The menu is unique, with many ingredients not often found in other Southeast Asian cuisines presented. A tea leaf salad flavored with fermented leaves is a case in point, and so is chicken paratha — a rich soup with rafts of floating flatbread." - Robert Sietsema