"Since March 2023, the always inventive Ben Chapman and his brilliant development chef Kim SongSoo have repositioned the laid-back Shoreditch Thai restaurant and bar Smoking Goat as a “chicken shop” — serving (very good) fried chicken, fish sauce wings, and snacks fashioned from crisped seasoned chicken skin. But Kim has also conceived a number of new dishes with a fresh focus on wok-cookery, including fried noodles with egg, chilli, and green onion that makes a visit essential; the moreish, textural phenomenon can work on its own or as the centrepiece around which other dishes can be enjoyed, such as the sweet, umami-rich pork with Chinese olives." - Adam Coghlan