"Famously, Dhamaka and its cousin Adda make their own paneer. This compressed collection of curds is so different than the supermarket sort used in most Indian restaurants today, which has obtained a rubbery consistency by being stored cold in plastic. Not here: This paneer, made from cow’s milk sourced upstate, is unstintingly fluffy. One version is coated with a mild but very red masala, but even better is the one that immerses generous cubes of paneer in a pungent fenugreek sauce, making for a brilliant vegetarian main course." - Robert Sietsema
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