"When longtime pop-up Budonoki went permanent in September 2023, Angelenos quickly realized something special had opened in Virgil Village. The dimly lit izakaya from partners Eric Bedroussian, Dan Rabilwongse, and Josh Hartley emanates a certain cool that’s hard to manufacture. All dark wood and neon lights, it’s not uncommon to find tables entirely obscured in food and drink as diners try to taste a bit of everything. Executive chef Rabilwongse’s experience at acclaimed restaurants like Urasawa, Bouchon, and Hayato comes through on a menu that blends Thai and Japanese flavors: The naem (Thai pork sausage) is a must-order for every meal, but don’t stop there. The best dinners at Budonoki are made up of as many dishes as is reasonable for the group size, like the grilled pork jowl, curry pan, and the Budo-Gnocchi, a take on gnocchi with rice cakes. For drinks, try the Matini, a take on a martini with sake and shochu, or the Hato with shochu, grapefruit, agave, and jalapeño. With Budonoki’s presence in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood, the restaurant also offers a monthly night for the local community called Makanai Monday, where a full meal set is available for only $15. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor" - Eater Staff
