
"After the sudden death of owner Matthew Dwyer this summer, Charlie's Steak House — a bare-bones Uptown neighborhood restaurant that's been around since 1932 — is set to reopen: local chef-owner Aaron Burgau and partners closed a deal with Dwyer’s brother Owl and his wife Heady and two other couples to revive the spot, with pitmaster Neil McClure running the kitchen. I note Burgau's culinary pedigree (stints at Bayona, opening Patois in 2007, and co-founding Central City BBQ in 2016), but he will serve as proprietor while McClure leads the food; McClure has even been able to secure roles for some of his former staff to move over to Charlie’s. The longtime Dryades Street institution, which Dwyer — who started there as a bartender and owned the restaurant since 2007 after buying it from the original owners two years after Hurricane Katrina and reopening in 2008 — kept traditions like no printed menus and metal plates, is known for serving only steaks and simple, traditional sides like potato gratin, onion rings, and creamed spinach in a homey atmosphere, and is expected to reopen at 4510 Dryades Street, still without printed menus, by the end of this month." - Clair Lorell