"Broths are so often associated with the leeching of animal fat into water, but one of London’s great noodle soups is completely vegetarian and can be found at Koya. A ball of crushed walnut miso is added to the dashi which then melts slowly into the soup, turning clarity to a sweet, murky chewiness. Beware the very real temptation to nibble at the sticky ball before it’s added. Chilli oil status: An act of vandalism." - Jonathan Nunn