The 38 Essential Tacos to Try in Los Angeles

"It would be easy for a customer from one of Los Angeles’s Mexican communities to see wayfaring taquero Walter Soto, a Tijuana native with culichi roots who has worked in Sinaloa, Sonora, and LA, and his wife Julia Silva’s truck as curators of LA taco hits, but there’s more than meets the eye. El Ruso is the most meta taqueria in town, with a menu of tacos about LA taco and tortilla trends. Here Mazatlán-style chorreadas, Tijuanense birria de res, Sonora-influenced carne asada with Sinaloan condiments, and Sonoran burritos wrapped in sobaqueras — made by Silva from Baja Californian wheat filled with chile colorado — reflect a menu that could only happen in LA." - Bill Esparza