"This critical darling is as notable for its distinguished omakase as it is for its chef, the always-present septuagenarian Norihiro Ishizuka. A meal here might start with simple nori or roe over rice before diving straight into an array of fish and seafood that could include o toro and California and Japanese sea urchin in addition to lesser-known offerings like black-throat sea perch and cherry blossom shrimp. In 2015, Ishizuka launched an equally cozy udon shop nearby called Raku, serving seven udons with toppings like bean curd and tempura." - Dan Q. Dao