"The team behind this tiny neighbourhood Sohoite have won a fantastic reputation by combining a fast-moving blackboard of superb gastropub dishes with an exceptional, unmercenary wine list (ask and ye shall receive). In late summer, Australian-born chef Cameron Emirali might pair pigeon with blackberries and pancetta, or watermelon with olives, feta and pine nuts. Bookings at lunch only, so don’t bank on availability by night." - Adam Coghlan