"Reopening from a two year refurbishment into a global pandemic is probably not what Highgate institution The Bull and Last had in mind, but its Sunday roast held up through it all. Short horn cattle from North Essex, and a potato, spring green, mushroom and taleggio pithivier are the mainstays. Taylor Swift will just be relieved that her London boy can show her Highgate." - Adam Coghlan, James Hansen