"Pammy’s has been open for about two and a half years now, and I’ve been fortunate to squeeze in quite a few visits since it debuted, nearly always ordering the lumache, which is served in a rich and spicy Bolognese spiked with the Korean chile paste gochujang. I ate it on two opposing occasions this year, once in celebration and once in grief, and it was equally suited to both — a simple, heartwarming, comfortable meal. —RLB" - Rachel Leah Blumenthal, Terrence Doyle, Dana Hatic