"It isn't a long drive from the hangar-cum-airport in Vieques, a tropical speck of an island off the east coast of Puerto Rico surrounded by teals, turquoises, and blues, to the stylish guesthouses at Finca Victoria. But wild horses often cross the narrow hillside road, and I had to stop several times to let them pass. By the time I arrived, I had missed breakfast. Luckily, Sylvia De Marco, Finca Victoria's friendly owner, had set a place for me in the alfresco vegan kitchen: Inside a Taíno bowl, a carved wooden vessel named after Puerto Rico's original Indigenous inhabitants, who were known for cultivating a variety of root vegetables, I found mashed pumpkin and malanga topped with caviar lentils cooked in cinnamon broth, avocado wedges, and cilantro grown on the property."