"Let’s get this out of the way: Café Chelsea’s Tiktok-viral ravioli dish (officially listed on the menu as the ravioles du Dauphiné) is neither more nor less than what it purports to be—a singular sheet of uncut ravioli pasta filled with comté cheese drowned in a cream vin jaune sauce. It’s good. C’est ça. That said, do not let this hyped plate be the only reason you get a reservation (well, if you’re lucky) at this buzzy New Yorkaise bistro in the Hôtel Chelsea because everything else is sublime. There are standouts: the olive tapenade, accompanied by semolina crackers, is made almost decadently chocolatey in taste and texture with the addition of dried figs. The croquette de chèvre—balls of goat cheese, fried, and dressed in honey and thyme flowers—are indulgent like the last hot makeout session with your summer fling as the sun sets over Christopher Street Pier: sweet, aromatic, devilishly heady. The maitake au poivre, a veggie take on the French habit of drenching meat in pepper sauce, can satisfy diners of all stripes with its textures; the mushroom (also known as hen-of-the-wood) is perfectly cooked—crispy on the outside with a delightful chew that lets you savor the kick of pepper on your palate. And even the grilled green beans are memorable, so crunchy and flavorful that even the most persnickety Chelsea-raised five-year-old will demand it each time they stop by with their parents. Quick hits: there’s a succulent roasted chicken; beef tartare that’ll make the uninitiated salivate; and a duet of tarts—chocolate with hazelnuts and pear with creme fraiche—that’ll transport you, somewhere, anywhere. So rarely does a restaurant offer a vibe that’s a hit with parents, out of towners, and first or second or third dates. — Matt Ortile, associate editor" - CNT Editors
