"Chef Masahiro Yoshitake makes the most sublime otsumami small plates at his omakase-only spot. In winter, there's sake-simmered shirako (cod milt) and in spring, hay-smoked bonito. We love the oysters with shiso and oyster-liquor jelly, but the piece de resistance is the tender abalone, served with an umami-rich dipping sauce of abalone liver and uni. Rice for the nigiri is steamed in traditional iron pots over charcoal and then seasoned with red vinegar. Those three Michelin stars are well deserved." - Melinda Joe