"Back up: Give us the wide-angle view of this place.After a $23 million renovation, this historic castle hotel has been upgraded for today’s traveler without losing the charm that’s helped make it such an iconic place to stay, particularly among American visitors. You’ll feel like you’re traveling back in time as you make the drive from the estate gates down a winding lane, past forest thickets and a vast lake, to catch the first glimpse of stone towers and turrets. While the estate has been the ancestral home of the royal-blooded O’Brien family since the 16th century, the current castle dates back to the early 1800s, and has been restored and expanded several times after; it’s been a hotel since the ‘60s. Sounds lovely. What’s the crowd like?You'll hear mostly American accents from your fellow guests, as this is a top spot for golfers, corporate retreats, and travelers flying into or out of nearby Shannon airport (where you can clear U.S. customs and immigration before departing.) But the Irish love it, too, especially for weddings and special occasions. How was check-in? Seamless and breezy, or a bit stilted?The arrival and departure is easy and on-point, thanks in large part to the legendary doormen and porters who help ferry your bags up and down the castle stairs with cheery smiles and lots of stories (assuming you can understand their thick brogues). Now, tell us about the digs.Today, the 97 guest rooms are set on various levels of the maze-like main building (snag one on the upper floors for original architectural touches like arched windows, carved ceiling, or a spiral staircase), as well as in the 18th-century Queen Anne Court building and Moriarty Wing extension, both connected to the main house by interior hallways. All have comfy, traditional decor, Irish linen-topped beds, flatscreen TVs with DVD/CD players, conveniently placed plugs and USB charging points, free Wi-Fi, and (in most) both showers and deep-soaking tubs, while some higher categories of room and the 14 suites have perks like living rooms, canopied beds, and extra-opulent decorative pieces or materials. Got it. What's the food situation?Dining options range from fine dining and white glove service in the elegant, chandelier-lit Earl of Thomond restaurant, to light bites around the fireplace in The Gallery, and the famous, multi-tiered Afternoon Tea, served daily in various locations. Come evening, there are mixologist-crafted delights, plenty of local spirits and beers, and live music in the octagonal-shaped Cocktail Bar, which was once the study of the Lord of the manor. You can also enjoy casual, international fare—including excellent burgers and fish-and-chips—in the Fig Tree Restaurant, just a short walk away at the Golf and Country Club. Anything else you want to shout out?While the estate is well-placed to explore area attractions like the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren, there is so much to do on property, it’s worth budgeting a couple extra days. In addition to the 18-hole championship golf course with a state-of-the-art Golf Academy, there are castle-appropriate activities like falconry walks through the forest, pony and trap rides, clay shooting, fishing, horseback riding, and biking on one of the complimentary rides. After it all, chill at the recently revamped spa, with an outdoor hot tub and treatments that use ingredients from the Irish coast. At then end of the day, why should we book a stay here?The historic setting, personable staff, wealth of on-site fun, and—depending on the time of year—not-so-outrageous rates make this well-worth a stop and splurge." - Sandra Ramani
