"From the week it opened in late May, Libertine has felt like a truly great Parisian bistro in the West Village. It already feels lived in—with chatter bubbling up to the ceiling every evening—and a host of dishes that feel like familiar favorites even on a first visit. No wonder, since it comes from partners Cody Pruitt, beverage director at Anfora, and executive chef Max Mackinnon (previously of Relae in Copenhagen and Rose’s Luxury in Washington, DC). A few of those instant classics: the gently boiled Oeufs Mayo ($19) slathered in rich, homemade mayonnaise speckled with trout roe and chives; a scallop ($18), broiled with seaweed butter and leeks, served in its own shell; and even a simple green salad ($21) that reminded me that the beauty of bistros is their ability to take three delicate ingredients (here: torn lettuce, fresh herbs, and a vinaigrette) and make them feel special. That’s not even getting into the wine, which is entirely all-natural and French. It’s exactly the kind of place you hope to be charmed by in the West Village. —Megan Spurrell, senior editor"
