"Set the scene for us: Where is this place, and what's the vibe? An Italian coastal classic, yet fresh as a popsicle, Il Pellicano continues to convince with a well-judged mix of retro glamour, glorious seafront location, and choreographed service. Its beach club is one of the coolest summer hangouts in the Mediterranean. Intriguing! What’s the story behind it? The hotel started life in 1965, when glamorous Anglo-American couple Patricia and Michael Graham (he an ex-fighter pilot, she an American socialite) built a sprawling cliff-side villa on the Monte Argentario peninsula in southern Tuscany. They filled it with friends and friends-of-friends; the set-up was that of a house party (although guests paid), and this feel was maintained when they sold it to present owner, entrepreneur Roberto Sciò, in 1979. Kirk Douglas, Robert Mitchum, Sophia Loren all came. A real hot-spot, then. What can we expect from the bedrooms? Either in the main villa or a more private cottage, set in the mature Mediterranean gardens. Some have sea views, others overlook the gardens. All have some kind of terrace or balcony. The decor is inspired by the sea and Tuscan hues with the odd pop of bubble-gum pink. Beds are huge and made up with crisp white linens. Bathrooms, some done in Carrara marble, others tiled, are mostly vast and kitted out with bath products custom-made for the hotel by maître parfumeur Maria Candida Gentile, with names such as ‘Windswept Hair,’ ‘A Place in the Sun,’ and ‘First Dive.’ Evocative, indeed. How about the food and drink? Pelligrill has been a classic long lunch stop-off for yachties and Romans for decades: spaghetti with clams and courgette flowers and sea bass baked in a salt crust. Michelin-starred Il Pellicano for Michelino Gioia’s creative take on Tuscan and Italian classics, such as John Dory with gallinacci mushrooms and a wild sorrel sauce, and pigeon breast with foie gras and Campari ‘profumo.’ Anything stand out about the service? Totally charming, with that hard-to-achieve balance between professionalism and familiarity. At a solo lunch at the Pelligrill, the waiter thoughtfully delivered a couple of magazines. That's a nice touch. What type of person stays here? Star-struck couples, smooth young Italian aristos, older folk treating themselves to a stay at one of Italy’s best-known hotels, and the tanned regulars for whom casual-chic is second nature. Of course. Can you tell us a little more about the area? Although Monte Argentario and Porto Ercole are quite built up, the Pellicano is positioned in such a way that once inside, you are completely unaware of any nearby buildings. Porto Ercole is no longer the chi-chi enclave it once was, but it is a pretty little town set around a harbor which fills up with yachts and gin palaces in summer. Got it. Anything we missed? Getting to the sea involves a steep staircase or lift that plunges down the cliffside. The spa uses Santa Maria Novella products from Florence. Nice! So, is it worth it—and why? The staff are terrific, the barman is a cocktail whizz, and the food is superb. Il Pellicano is truly a beautiful hotel in an incredible spot." - Nicky Swallow
