"What were your first impressions when you arrived? One of LA's longest-standing fine dining restaurants reopened in May 2023 with a sophisticated new look, and a Green Michelin star to add to its accolades. Walking in from busy Melrose Ave, diners are gently transported to an underwater world thanks to hand-finished Venetian plaster walls in an ombre effect of tidal greens and blues, carpeting that evokes wave ripples, and a hand-blown glass installation (Sea Clouds by Jeremy Maxwell Wintrebert) above the dining room that could be reminiscent of air bubbles floating to the surface. What’s the crowd like? Getting a reservation takes time, and the well-heeled crowd (mostly couples and pairs of friends) has clearly taken the time to get dressed to impress. What should we be drinking? It's worth splurging on the wine pairing but don't leave the restaurant without trying at least one cocktail thoughtfully crafted by bar director, Kim Stodel. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. An advocate of sustainable seafood, chef Michael Cimarusti's ever-evolving tasting menu proudly showcases the herbs and flowers his team grows in the rooftop garden, which is also home to two beehives. It's hard not to be impressed by the care and attention he puts into every dish, which might start with a include a vermilion rockfish with porcini and sea fennel or a delicate swordfish with lipstick pepper, charred vegetable jus and mint. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The dinner experience might last close to three hours, and throughout it all the staff remain attentive, cool and collected, delivering each dish and pouring wine with the grace of a perfectly choreographed ritual. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? This is a date night kind of place, and you're just as likely to see couples celebrating a 30-year anniversary as you are the glimmer of young love on a third date." - Celeste Moure
