"What were your first impressions when you arrived? The room is cozy, with black and white checkerboard floors and modest wood paneling—no modernist black walnut millwork here, folks. But the interior, executed by local luminary restaurant designer Craig Stanghetta, is not meant to be a hifalutin dining experience. This is a comfortable, buzzy place, filled with the aroma of seriously good Italian cooking wafting from the tiny, open kitchen. What’s the crowd like? The clientele reflects the lack of pretense: couples and groups of friends (only up to six) chatter over glasses of house red at bistro tables or banquets. On busy nights, a line stretches outside. What should we be drinking? There is the obligatory grappa, as well as a revolving on tap selection of beer, Prosecco, and house-bottled spritzes. However, you’ll mainly be drinking Italian reds or whites with dinner. While not an extensive menu, this is a thoughtful list that doesn’t feature extortionate markups. But nobody is here just to drink. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. As the decor suggests, this is comfort food, but the classics are innovative. The restaurant is owned by Kitchen Table Restaurants, which operates a number of beloved, award-winning spots in Vancouver, including MICHELIN Recommended Carlino and Bacaro. Appetizers range from meatballs; burrata with seasonal vegetables; and arugula and fennel salad to fried cauliflower and chickpeas, while entrées comprise pastas like pappardelle and duck ragu and risotto with porcini mushrooms (all pasta is freshly made in house.) For dessert? The choices are limited to three, but the delicate olive oil cake is a must. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? This is an excellent restaurant on all fronts and that includes the service. The staff are friendly and casual, but above all, they’re professional. Who should we bring with us? Best for a double date or small group. That way, you can share entrées and cover more menu ground." - Guy Saddy
