"Ryugin’s name means “dragon’s voice,” and chef Seiji Yamamoto’s revolutionary approach to traditional kaiseki—he once used a CT scanner to examine the skeleton of a pike eel—has made him a living legend. In recent years, he's adopted a more subdued aesthetic, but his highly refined dishes prove that he’s still at the top of his game. Seafood is his wheelhouse, and his product-driven and cleverly technical dishes are meant for serious foodies." - Melinda Joe