"Ashley Christensen is one of the top chefs in the country—she was named 2019's Outstanding Chef at the James Beard Awards—and her flagship restaurant, a reimagined diner with low tin ceilings and red leather baguettes, does comfort food at its best: chicken liver pâté, oxtail, seasonal Southern vegetables, and sides that are meant to be shared, including the knockout macaroni au gratin. The Caesar salad has fennel; the grits can be topped with pico de gallo; and the burrata might have country ham and pickled pumpkin." - Stephanie Burt