"Breakfast service done well is a cheerful, life-affirming start to the day, and Willa Jean does it with aplomb. There’s a range of decadence happening across the main food menu. At the healthy end of the spectrum, there are grain bowls and the omnipresent avocado toast with poached eggs. On the more sinful side, there is the pimento cheese dip, the griddled banana bread with whipped butter, and the city-appropriate hangover bowl, with braised short ribs and grits. However, the most indulgent dish of all just might be the béchamel- and gruyere-drenched Croque Madame. And don’t miss the cookies from James Beard Award winner Kelly Fields on your way out. It’s a great change to the usual sausage and eggs of regular diners, in a space that’s at once welcoming and functional." - Paul Oswell