Soneva Fushi

"What were your first impressions?The pioneer of the barefoot luxury vibe—now a Maldives staple—and still the place that does it best. But while it looks like a castaway fantasy island hewn entirely from driftwood, it's also secretly souped up, with serious eco-credentials to boot. Nothing is as exciting as a bumpy arrival by seaplane, particularly in the Maldives—it's like stepping into a 3D version of the Blue Planet. Suddenly you’re in the Baa Atoll, surrounded by crystal clear waters filled with manta rays and turtles; it's a blue-on-blue world, a tropical paradise of verdant palm trees, warm air, and a soft breeze. Suddenly Winter feels far away as the pilot says, "the outside temperature is 84 degrees.” Even if you’ve flown a long way to get here, it's immediately better than a painkiller just to be here. Sun, sea, sand—the Maldives does what it says on the tin with the added boon of knowing that the luxury is going to be turbo-boosted, yet at the same time mainlining a barefoot simplicity. This tightrope is key to the experience. Step out of the plane barefoot and walk down the long wooden jetty onto your very own island—all the while knowing that some of the best sushi in the world awaits. So what's the backstory on this place?Soneva was founded by Sonu and Eva Shivdasani and was their first Barefoot Luxury resort. Sonu and Eva originally founded Six Senses and later sold the group, keeping Soneva Fushi, as it was their favorite property. Soneva Fushi opened in the Maldives in 1995, Soneva Kiri in Thailand opened in 2010, and was followed by Soneva Jani (the Maldives) in 2016. Soneva Fushi was completely ground-breaking at the time of opening—it marked the arrival of the first eco luxury resort in the Maldives and became famous for its "no shoes, no news" policy and laid-back vibe. Here was a hotel where it was not only acceptable but encouraged to turn up to meals with no shoes and in a sarong. This was a new kind of smart—unbranded and cool. It’s worth flagging that responsibility and sustainability are at the core of the Soneva philosophy. Fushi spearheads a marine conservation program, and there’s a purpose-built Eco-Centro that handles all of the waste management and recycling. There’s also a creative art and glass studio that recycles wine bottles into glasses and artworks. Previous guests include: Liv Tyler, Jodie Kidd, Astronaut Buzz Aldrin, and Sir Mo Farah, but discretion is what it's all about. This is a place to come for anonymity. Tell us about your room.I came as part of a group—it was party time and we stayed in Villa 11, the nine-bedroom reserve, which was awesome—incredibly spacious—with its own private pool, sunken seating, dining room, cinema room, a slide into the pool, a full music system, its own gym. All quite '90s playboy pad. But the interiors were sophisticated, very calming, and in keeping with the stunning natural world surrounding, there was lots of wood, and lots of nooks and hammocks to bed down in and relax with a good book. Everyone could do their own thing and disappear, but we also frequently came together to eat, drink tea, dance, watch a movie. Most afternoons a group of us would gather in the sea and bob for hours, talking. Sounds ideal. What are the food and drinks options like?The new two-story Out of the Blue restaurant is seriously cool, with a mega bar and views over the sea. You can sit on netting right over the waves and if the weather is turbulent, get a wet bottom while drinking cocktails—it's really fun. At every meal there’s every food available that you can imagine—to be honest, the decadence is almost too much—it feels like a lot must go to waste. There’s enough sushi to sink a ship, buffet marathons for each meal, a complimentary ice cream parlor open 24/7, as well as the cheese room. How did you find the service?Upon arrival, each Villa is appointed with a Mr. or Mrs. Friday—a private butler who is on hand. They arrange everything from snorkeling and surfing trips to spa treatments. I think the intimacy of this arrangement works. The service in the restaurants was a bit less impressive—sometimes things took a long time to arrive or were forgotten completely. What were the other guests like?Unpretentious, laid back crowd totally unconcerned with labels or anything too show-offy. They’re floating around in Indian floral print kaftans, barefoot, no make-up, very little self-concern. This isn’t a place for those too cool for school. It's about good old-fashioned fun, warm-hearted and open vibes. What should we know about the location?This is island as hotel. Civilization is a long way away; here you are self-contained—everything you need within walking distance. Why would you choose here over other Maldivian hotels? I think because of the ethos—intelligent luxury, no TVs, an eco approach that is laid-back and authentic without being too in-your-face earnest. What's the one thing you'd change?I’d make breakfast more a la carte, so you were immediately bought a menu and baskets of baked goods, etc. I found the endless buffet meals tiring and it meant that somehow our group never all sat down at the same time, which was a shame. If you asked for a pat of butter it seemed to take half an hour to come, so they could make the whole experience a lot sharper. Very helpful. Anything else of note?There’s an Observatory for those wishing to stargaze (beautiful), and there is also The Den—a fun space for children to play and enjoy their visit (think Lego room, fancy dress, giant keyboard). They’ve also launched Soneva Surf—the world’s first sustainable surfing program (eco-friendly surfboards, surf wax, sunscreen—you’re encouraged to leave your own kit at home). The spa is also special, though a little unloved—it felt like they could light a few candles and put the heart back into things. Lovely treatments, though—lots of massages, from hot stone to marma, and the likes of rose crystal lymphatic facials. Sum it up for us: worth it, and why?For a fly and flop beach trip it's sensational, but it's more revved up than when I first visited 18 years ago, and in some ways I miss the simplicity of how it used to be—when it was just 11 rooms and a beach. It feels a bit bling and souped-up now in comparison, but I think this is true of the Maldives in general, not just of Soneva Fushi. And I think some of the development is to meet the growing demand for ‘things to do’—when really what most of us want is an excuse to do nothing. For a group party gathering, it totally nailed it. For a romantic hideaway I might look at somewhere with less of a group element that felt more intimate—but this may be because I traveled as part of a group. What is special is that it still feels rustic compared with somewhere like Reethi Rah (which is like stepping into an advert for Net a Porter)." - Daisy Finer