"Chef Takaaki Sugita started working in the sushi world when he was in high school, and after more than 20 years as a chef, he's one of the best in the business. His style is traditional but subtly innovative, as evidenced by his experimenations with fish maturation times to bring out the buttery richness of bonito and the silky texture of thinly sliced sardine. His signature is the luxuriously creamy ankimo (monkfish liver) pate, steeped in sweetened soy sauce and dabbed with wasabi—the perfect accompaniment to sake. A must-try piece, however, is the shime-saba and shiso nori roll." - Melinda Joe