"Wildair is more than a wine bar—at this beloved restaurant, the excellent glasses play a supporting role to the menu from chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske. You’ll still find that chef-y vibe that you’d at one time find at Contra, in the small plates like the pissaladiéclair, a cross between the Provençal anchovy-studded flatbread and a traditional éclair, or Pommes Darphin, topped with uni and jalapeño-shallot relish."