"St Lawrence feels like small Quebec café, complete with silky sauces and serious culinary technique. Thematically riffing off French Canadian cuisine, the restaurant doesn't put on any airs—neither in the kitchen nor the space itself. The decor—blue painted wainscoting, an assortment of tchotchkes, and Quebecois nostalgia—is by turns quirky and rustic. It's the perfect place to enjoy chef JC Poirier's unpretentious and satisfying food. For a starter, try the novel take on steak tartare, elevated here with the unexpected addition of chevre noir. But the mains are where St Lawrence shines. Tourtiere, a regional staple, is made with venison; drizzle it with maple syrup for maximum Quebecois effect. Local ling cod is done in a delicate saffron sauce; a thick-cut pork chop is dressed decadently with Oka cheese and a house-made butcher sauce. Oh, and even if you have to split it, do try the grilled hanger steak with bone marrow and—duh—frites." - Guy Saddy, Nicole Schnitzler
