"With unadorned concrete walls, Seirinkan, Tokyo's original pizza hideaway, feels like it’s built inside a bunker. Susumu Kakinuma, the owner and pioneering pizzaiolo, cut his teeth in Naples, returning to his native land well equipped to roll some dough. Here he keeps the menu purposely simple, with just two pies: a traditional margherita and a cheese-less marinara. The crust bubbles and chars in small pockets, thanks to a short blast in the wood-fired oven, and holds a crisp exterior before revealing a satisfying underlying chew." - Brad Japhe
