"Like many chefs, [Charlie Palmer] will head to izakaya Aburiya Raku, which, despite being a fabled go-to on gourmand travel lists and a favorite of Guy Savoy and the late Joel Robuchon, is still hard to find. 'Anything off the robata grill,' is what you’ll see Shawn McClain eating here... Raku’s sake menu rolls more than 100 selections deep, and McClain says his trips inevitably involve catching up with the staff late at night. McClain’s own takes on slow-poached farm eggs are famous, but he experiences no egg fatigue when he reaches Raku, going for 'the poached egg and sea urchin, as well as foie gras chowanmushi' (a steamed egg custard) when he arrives—usually between 11 p.m. and 2 a.m."