"This charismatic Dean Street address is a slice of old Soho, founded in the 1920s and still going strong. The food is regional, seasonal, and thoroughly British, from suet-crusted pie and mash to deviled kid-liver skewers. The wine list is lengthy, and the cocktail menu offers punchy house creations alongside classics. It’s enjoyable in a different way at any time of day, from a breakfast bacon roll in upscale surrounds to a blowout dinner." - Elizabeth Winding, Sonya Barber
