"Da Fiore has long held a Michelin star thanks to chef Mara Martin, whose accomplished, dependable creations are comfortingly old-fashioned, which fits the classic vibe of the houseboat-like dining room. Some dishes are legends that have drawn devotees for decades: crispy fried oysters on a bed of savoury zabaione; ultra-trad bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovies and onions); perfectly cooked soft-shelled moeche crabs. But expect solid rather than pyrotechnic, with an emphasis on comfort." - Anne Hanley