"This popular trattoria has had a glow up, reopening in the up-and-coming San Lorenzo district after a five year hiatus. The 12-seat communal table has been replaced with an entire restaurant seating plan, but the menu remains as good as ever—with chef Baccannelli reinventing classics, like fried tripe with grated pecorino cheese. This is big, hearty Roman food: the kind of place you want to fall into after a morning hike. There are homemade fettuccine and trofie pasta paired with hearty tomato sauces; fried fish croquettes, lasagna and roasted suckling pig. The spaghetti with clams is excellent; as are the meatballs and the rosemary fried potatoes. Helpings are generous; finish off with a plate of tiramisu and a digestive liquor. The wine list is extensive, so don’t just go for the house red. Labels are mostly upscale and Italian; a glass will set you back eight euros. They also have a very good selection of gins." - Maresa Manara