"Last fall in Ottawa, when restaurant-going briefly verged on normal, masked servers at Aiāna confidently doled out delicacy after delicacy as part of the fledgling restaurant’s 12-course tasting menu. Think crisp potato cones brimming with truffles or Acadian caviar, a splendid lightly curried squash soup, chocolate–foie gras macaroons, a deeply beefy wagyu pithiviers and more."