"Just because food is served from a truck, you shouldn’t consider it fast food. Lakana Trubiana doesn’t simply make a bunch of sauce and cook meat and then play mix-and-match from insideDee Dee's black truck in East Austin . She prepares meals from scratch, but loyal customers know it’s worth the extra few minutes for dishes likea minced pork laab moo that carries a double-fisted pop of sour (lime juice) and heat (smoked chili powder). Trubiana is from Northern Thailand , so you can expect someheat in most of her dishes, even the unassuming papaya salad. Don’t letits cool name fool you: The heat in theservingof shredded papayas and green beans flecked with roasted peanuts may be invisible, but it is real."