Where to Drink in Tuscany

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
Multiple locations
9 Places
@afar
As one of Italy’s (and the world’s) best-known wine regions, Tuscany has no shortage of varietals and vintages to explore. But along with all the enoteche (wine bars), there are plenty of places to sip an aperitivo before dinner or to savor a post-meal digestivo while listening to some live music. The retro cocktail craze has hit Florence, too, so you’ll also find hip spots celebrating the art of the handcrafted drink. Credit: Collected by Sandra Ramani, AFAR Contributor

Irene Firenze

Restaurant · Santo Spirito

"Irene Irene, a bright and colorful restaurant at the Hotel Savoy, is great for lunch on the sunny bistro terrace outside or for a nightcap sipped on a velvet banquette at the bar inside. The kitchen turns out traditional Tuscan cuisine with surprising modern touches: The classic tomato-and-bread pappa al pomodoro comes stuffed inside ravioli, and the vitello tonnato (veal with tuna-caper sauce) is topped with ribbons of shaved fennel and served withthe sauce on the side. On Sundays, the popular "Lunch at Nonna's" menu is a loving nod to the restaurant's namesake. Pre- or post-dinner, grab a seat on the terrace, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, to enjoy wines served in retro-style carafes and bubbly poured into 1950s coupe glasses."

Photo courtesy of Irene Firenze

Le Volpi e l'Uva

Wine bar · San Niccolo

"Le Volpi e l'Uva Reserve an outside table at this popular enoteca , located on a quiet piazza around the corner from the crowded Ponte Vecchio. You can order a predinner snack or, better still, cobble together a full meal from the selection of crostini with delicious toppings like truffle sausage and melted cheese or spicy 'nduja sausage. Other menu highlights include the antipasti platters of cheese and mixed cured meats. The staff can help you choose from the wine list, which focuses on small producers. (If you want to expand your wine expertise, guided tastings are also available here.)"

Photo by Gianluca Moggi

Tea Room - Siena

Tea house · Siena

"More than Just Tea Head to this perennial favorite near Piazza Del Campo to mingle with locals over a cup of tea—or, come evening, something a bit stiffer. There are close to 100 types of teas available, as well as infusions and hot chocolates, each served in a unique tea pot and matching cup; Ilario, the genial owner, can help you navigate all the choices. Pair your pick with a dessert or baked treat, then settle into one of the cushy armchairs or sofas, under one of the dimly lit space's original stone archways, to pass a relaxing hour or so. This is also a great place for a pre- or post-dinner drink, thanks to a full bar and, a few times a week, live music."

Enoteca Calasto

Permanently Closed

"Take (Wine) Flight After exploring Lucca’s main cathedral, head across Piazza San Giovanni to this small bar stocking over 150 wines, with a concentration on choices from the immediate region. The friendly staff are happy to provide insight and suggestions, and wine flights are available so you can sample a few selections; let the staff know if you find something you love that’s from the area, as they may be able to arrange a visit to the vineyard or winery. The food menu is designed to pair well with the vintages, and includes shareable items like meat-and-cheese platters and oversized sandwiches. There’s also a small bottle shop on-site, so you can pick up some liquid souvenirs."

Photo courtesy of Enoteca Calasto

Mayday Club

Cocktail bar · San Niccolo

"Sending Out Signals Two Florentine brothers were inspired by the history of radio communication to name their cushy bar Mayday—and outfit it with vintage radios (set on the tables and hanging from the ceiling), black-and-white photographs, and tons of other vintage memorabilia. The drinks, too, feel of another time, with their focus on handcrafted preparations, small-batch liquors, and organic and locally grown ingredients. Sample everything from unfiltered brews made from Tuscan barley and wheat, to a rare Scottish whisky or a green tea–infused cocktail. The atmosphere is one of collaboration: There are nightly lively music performances, the walls are lined with art installations and exhibits, and patrons are encouraged to leave their own vintage mementos. Classes in mixology and infusion-making are also available, and are a fun way to hone your skills while mingling with locals."

Photo by Martin Kalfatovic/Flickr

Enoteca Falorni

Wine store · Greve in Chianti

"Automatic Tasting Tour An enomatic machine in the heart of wine country—what could be better? The largest enoteca in Chianti, this bar encourages experimentation and sampling, thanks to the card-operated, by-the-glass machines; just go slow, as there are over 140 wines available to taste. Pick a couple that stand out to you, or follow a guided “itinerary” through the 13 different tasting sections, which are grouped by type of wine, production region, and type of tasting (such as vertical tastings, or one of just Chianti Classicos by year). Olive oils and sweet wines are also available to sample."

Photo courtesy of Enoteca Falorni

Mad - Souls & Spirits

Cocktail bar · San Frediano

"Mad Creative Mixologists If you’re looking for a classic martini or Aperol spritz, move along—this bar is all about taking the cocktail to unexpected places. In a tiny, spartan space (think red brick walls and lightly adorned wooden tables), noted booze alchemists Neri Fantechi and Julian Biondi, along with their team of Florence award-winning mixologists, whip up drinks with unique flavor profiles and combinations, like carrot jam with bourbon and egg whites. (The drinks also have names that will make you smile.) The menu is divided into three parts—Soul Warmers, A Fistful of Dollars, and Fabulous Spirits—and also includes a nice selection of mezcals and rye vodkas (Biondi serves as a brand ambassador for Russia’s Poulgar vodka.) The duo also hosts mixology classes and other drink-focused events for fellow enthusiasts and novices alike."

Photo courtesy of Mad Souls & Spirits

Bitter Bar

Cocktail bar · San Niccolo

"A Florentine Speakeasy Italy never had Prohibition (can you imagine the country going wine-free?), but this intimate bar, opened in 2017, brings a touch of that era’s speakeasy style to central Florence. Owner and veteran bartender Cristian Guitti places equal importance on taste and aesthetics, creating concoctions that both excite the palate—with a hint of smoke here, and some barrel aging there—and also do your Instagram proud. The menu is heavily inspired by '20s-era cocktails, with nods to both America and Italy, so you’ll find drinks like Old Sport (based on Wild Turkey 81 Bourbon), Coney Island (rum with popcorn, chili, dark chocolate, and more), and Aglio Olio & Peperoncino (tequila blanco with olive oil and the essential oils of orange and chili). Guitti considers this a “cocktail experience,” which means the multi-step drinks may take a while to be prepared, but you’ll have fun soaking up the retro atmosphere while waiting for them to arrive."

Photo by Francesca Nardoni Ph

Franklin'33

Bar · Lucca

"Your Lucca Local If the sound of jazz spilling out into the streets of Lucca’s historic old town doesn’t charm you, one sip of these cocktails will. A fast favorite with both locals and visitors (the latter often make this their “local” during their time in town), the cozy bar offers Prohibition-inspired décor and a menu focused on the classic American cocktail—with some twists. The bartenders are both knowledgeable and friendly (a winning combo), and are happy to guide you through the decision-making process, or just make you the perfect martini. Note the bar can get crowded, particularly before and after dinner, so make a reservation to snag prime seating on the couches or upstairs."

Photo courtesy of Franklin 33