"A Perfect Scallop At La Cuchara de San Telmo, on the corner of the plaza Valle Lersundi in San Sebastian, the specialties were hot pintxos, quickly prepared to order--from the menu or the specials board, or by pointing to what your neighbor was eating. This was one of best scallops I have ever tasted. But then, so was the second one we had when we returned after another hour or so of pintxo bar hopping in the Parte Vieja (Old Town)."

"Playland in the Sky It was raining when we arrived in Donostia-San Sebastian, but the skies cleared on our second day, and we rode the funicular railway up Mount Igueldo to take in the view back on the city, La Concha Bay, and the empty beach. The "low" travel season had just begun, and the strange little children's amusement park on the mountaintop had shuttered up for the fall and winter, adding just the right disorienting touch of weird desolation to the Basque country panorama."

"Surf Central San Sebastián, for many, is a surf town. Pukas is your one-stop shop for everything from surf lessons, bikinis, gear, and cool souvenirs with a local twist, like their trademark 'Surfing the Basque Country' t-shirts."

"The 24-Hour Basque Drum Fest January 20. The favorite day of residents of San Sebastián . A day that nearly always portends cold, rain, and discomfort. It's the Day of San Sebastián, also known as the Tamborrada. Imagine an entire town turning up at the main square at midnight. The mayor sits above them all, flags are flying, bright spotlights are shining, and a group of middle-aged men are playing the drums. Then imagine that for the next 24 hours, the sound of drumming fills the streets of the entire city. Sleeping is done at random times throughout the day...but not during normal sleeping hours. It's the party no one wants to miss. And if you just so happen to be in town to catch it, allow yourself to be swept away."

"A Wild Paradise at Ten Minutes' Walk Most visitors never cross the river from the Old Part, and the vast majority overlook what has to be one of the most beautiful hikes from here to California. At the edge of Gros, a trail heads up some stairs (at the end of Calle San Francisco ) and continues for hours, all the way to the neighboring village of Pasaia. It's a family-friendly trail in terms of difficulty, and the views are breathtaking. A must-hike."

"An Art Museum with a Basque Touch Museo San Telmo is a must-see for any art or culture-phile during a visit to San Sebastián . The newly renovated museum's architecture alone makes for fascinating viewing, and there are sections on Basque anthropology as well as revolving exhibitions, such as a celebration of the bicentennial of the burning of the city."

"A Ferry to Santa Clara Island From May to August, a ferry runs from the port of San Sebastián to the island that sits serenely in the middle of the Concha Bay. The island is quiet, isolated, and empty. There is a café on the island with a mysterious timetable, and a lighthouse that makes for a picturesque snapshot. Grab a loaf of bread, some cheese and ham, and settle down for a picnic and a reverse view of San Sebastián."

"Seafood Shopping with the Chefs La Bretxa shopping center houses the usual trappings of a modern-day shopping mall, but below ground one can find the city's largest and best market for the fruits of the sea. Cold, wet and crowded, this is the spot where you will find both renowned chefs and housewives of the city vying for the best anchovies, calamari, and cod of the day's catch."

"Txotx! Experience an Authentic Cider House December to May is cider season in the Basque Country. Basque cider is quite different (drier, more bitter) than its American and English counterparts. The real magic in Basque cider, however, happens when it is consumed. Groups of friends head in droves to cider houses, gather 'round wooden tables, and grab a glass. No orders are placed—cod omelettes and steak come to the table without question, while diners drink their fill of cider from the barrel. Zapiain is a top quality cider with an authentic ambience, open only during the season."

"San Sebastián's Number-One Gin-Tonic La Gintonería, in the less-traversed neighborhood of Gros, could very well be the best gin-tonic in San Sebastián . With two shelves laden with premium and hard-to-find gins, it's a gintonaholic's dream. They have a selection of premium tonics and an arsenal of techniques to match. Watch as they instantaneously infuse your gin with cardamom using a pellet of dry ice. Or inhale as they drip just a few drops of bitters into your fishbowl glass. Whatever gin you choose, you are in for one of the best mixed drinks of your life."

"A Walk on the Edge of the Earth Arriving to Getaria can be done by bus, but one of the most unforgettable parts of visiting this village is approaching (or exiting) it by the sidewalk that winds along the sea. Depending on the time of year, you will have endless views of a calm sea or rough waves that remind you of the power of nature and make you admire the Basque people's hardiness. It's about a 40-minute walk from Zarautz to Getaria, on a flat sidewalk. There's even a bathroom halfway. No excuses."