"Sweet Treat So why go to Istanbul in the late fall/early winter? Well, airfares are lower than in high season, you can pretty much get any hotel room you want, there are no crowds so no lines to stand in, and the price of pretty much anything you might want to buy as a souvenir is at rock bottom. There’s also a sweet treat waiting for you if you go at this time of year – freshly roasted chestnuts! Everywhere in Sultanahmet and Taksim, you will see men standing behind red colored carts, roasting and selling chestnuts. The moment my nose even detects the faintest note of the sweet, smoky scent of the chestnuts being roasted over charcoal, I make a bee line in the direction I think it’s coming from. It’s such a treat for me to have roasted chestnuts that I devour these little nuggets of goodness like there’s no tomorrow! It will only cost you a few lira for a 100 gram bag and it’s the perfect snack on a fall day. If you are in Sultanahmet, get your bag of chestnuts and head over to Gülhane Park. Find yourself a nice bench and watch the world go by as you enjoy your fall time treat in Istanbul!"

"Enjoy the "Fal" Flavor of Turkish Coffee If you’re keen to experience the medieval practice of "kahve falı" or "fal" (fortune telling with Turkish coffee) then make an appointment at Symbol Café in Nişantaşı with Tunc, one of the few English-speaking coffee readers in the city. Once there, order a Turkish coffee with "sade" (no sugar), "az" (little sugar), "orta" (medium sugar), or "şekerli" (sweet), and savor the flavor of a rich aromatic coffee as you ponder your life’s ambitions. When the last drop leaves your lips and all that is left are the grinds sunk deep in the demitasse (small cup), take the saucer and gently seal it atop the cup. Swirl the cup and saucer clockwise three times and then flip them both toward you, holding them firmly so as not to spill the grinds. Relax as the grinds dry out, and wait for Tunc to find you in the cozy café filled with locals who are also eager for readings. When Tunc hypnotically gazes at the grinds to interpret the patterns before his eyes, expect to hear about your past, present, and future with uncanny accuracy (or at least that’s what happened to me). Facts about your life, love, career, money, family, and travel will spill out of the cup for Tunc to interpret without you mentioning a word. Symbol Cafe is at Valikonağı Caddesi (Street) No: 34 Nişantaşı - İstanbul - Telephone: (0212) 291 75 40. The closest train stop to Symbols Cafe is Osmanbey Metro Station, one stop from Taksim Square."

"Shimmy a Turkish Night If you’re in Istanbul and interested in Turkish music and dance, then you should shimmy along to a Turkish Night. Favorite venues are Sultanas (www.sultanas-nights.com) and Karavansaray (www.kervansarayistanbul.com) in Taksim or Gar Gazino (www.garmuzikhol.com) in Yenikapi (near Sultanahmet). Most programs boast a bevy of talented belly dancers, folkloric dancers, and performers who re-enact cultural celebrations such as regional and Ottoman-style weddings. On occasion, you may see a comical performance by a flirty duo, Aşuk and Maşuk, who frolic with one another and the crowd in a dance of playful love. The show generally culminates in a program of party anthems from around the world sung by a pitch-perfect multilingual singer. Tickets include transfers to/from your hotel, three-course meals, and drinks (local alcohol only). The top belly dancers at these venues do teach and perform worldwide, so the standard of performance is high. Hodjapasa (www.hodjapasha.com) is also a favorite for its ambience and performances set in a 550 year old hamam in historic Sirceki. However, tickets do not include dinner, only soft drinks, tea, and coffee. Shows generally start around 9pm and finish by 11pm. Always confirm the program upon booking, and if you’re interested in busting some moves, don’t be shy—most audience members from the Balkan and Middle Eastern countries perform their own national dances once the curtain comes down on the show."

"Byzantine and Ottoman Beauty Walk into Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) and look up to the heavens to see why so many conquerors and their respective religions claimed this basilica turned mosque turned museum as their own. Visitors will swoon over the Byzantine gilded mosaics, hanging chandeliers, purple marble columns, Islamic calligraphic slates, and tiled seraphim. The existing structure is an architectural wonder in itself, having stood the test of time since the 6th century."

"Hamsi in the Wintertime Come October, the weather cools and fisherman start overflowing local fish markets with freshly caught hamsi (European anchovies) from the Black Sea. Istanbulites (locals) who have been patiently waiting for months to taste this tiny meaty fish venture out in the cold to satisfy their seafood addiction and buy the fish by the kilo. Hamsi is either pan-fried, grilled, or added to other dishes such as rice, and it's so good it often brings friends together for hamsi dinner parties (or at least that's what my friends and I do!) If you don't like anchovies, then you've probably never tried European anchovies in Turkey before. Try hamsi in the wintertime at one of the fish restaurants on or near the Galata Bridge. My only suggestion is, when dining at any fish restaurant, make sure you know the price of your meal before confirming your order, and always check the bill after. Fish restaurants are unfortunately notorious for overcharging tourists."

"Intimate Dining and Friendly Service Rumeli Cafe is an ideal location for dining while people-watching from the streetside terrace in the bustling Sultanahmet neighborhood. Summertime sees the opening of a rooftop dining area, where guests can gaze at the stars and glimpse at the minarets of the Blue Mosque. When the weather chills in winter, the allure of the restaurant moves inside—where the gentle crackling of open fireplaces invite guests to stay a while to appreciate a glass of mulled wine paired with a rich Ottoman dish. Set in a former Ottoman print house, the restaurant has become one of Sultanahmet’s most loved thanks to its friendly service and intimate dining areas with dark wood floors, wrought iron fixtures, and exposed red brick walls—an atmosphere reminiscent of dining in a foregone Byzantine palace. Personal favorites are the grilled marinated calamari, the Ottoman-style Marmara A’la Rosto (roast beef with rice and vegetables), and the seafood linguini. Also on the menu are regional specialities such as Ali Nazik (minced lamb and beef on a bed of pureed eggplant and yogurt); Byzantine dishes like Papaz Yahnisi (stewed lamb and vegetable served with cumin and garlic in a terracotta pot); fresh seafood including sea bass, sea bream, and jumbo shrimp; and vegetarian options."

"Cooking Turkish If you revel in gastro-travel, or perhaps you’re pondering how to make Ottoman and Turkish classics back home, then don an apron and broaden your culinary horizons at Cooking Alaturka in Sultanahmet. This innovative cooking school, for groups of two to 10 people, will guide enthusiastic foodies through the process of preparing and cooking a five-course meal of Turkey’s favorites—some of which were once served from the kitchens of Topkapı Palace. Classes are available for lunch and dinner with a choice of menus that are listed on the school's website. Prepare tasty starters like lentil soups or fresh mezes. Simmer classic dishes such as the İmam bayıldı (the priest loved it)—an eggplant bursting with flavors of onion, garlic, and tomato. Slow cook the hünkar beğendi—lamb presented on a bed of smoky eggplant puree, or bake künefe, a dessert made from white cheese, sugar syru,p and shredded pastry. The hard part is deciding which menu to choose. At the end of class, enjoy what you prepared and slowly devour the five courses with a glass of Turkish wine. Cooking Alaturka is Istanbul’s first cooking school, started by Dutch expat and Cordon Bleu graduate Eveline Zoutendijk in 2002. Today, Eveline and a Turkish chef provide a cultural experience that's excellent value for money. Guest who aren’t into cooking are welcome to have dinner at the end of class. Bookings are essential. Afiyet olsun / Bon appetit!"